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skin rejuvenation

Chemical Skin Peels

Minimally invasive (ie NON-SURGICAL) techniques for anti-aging skin treatment & facial rejuvenation have gained popularity in recent years & continue to do so. These include the injection of BOTOX and fillers, chemical skin peels and cosmeceuticals.

With many treatment options available to reverse the signs of aging it is very easy to become confused. This leaflet has been prepared to provide some information about chemical peels & answer some commonly asked questions. Should you be interested
in this treatment & would like to arrange a consultation, please do not hesitate to contact us. Further information will be provided at consultation.

Chemical peels can effectively reverse the damaging effects of several factors which contribute to skin aging & can improve a wide variety of skin conditions including:

  • Fine lines & wrinkles
  • Sallow/dull skin/enlarged pores
  • Blackheads
  • Irregular pigmentation/freckling
  • Sun damage/age spots
  • Acne/acne scarring
  • Blemish prone skin
  • Oily/dry/rough skin
  • Precancerous skin lesions

What are chemical skin peels?
Skin peels are chemical solutions which are applied to the skin to facilitate the removal of damaged and dead cells within the uppermost layer of skin called the epidermis. These cells are replaced by new healthy cells. Chemical peels also stimulate collagen & elastin in the deep skin layer which is called the dermis.

Are there different peels available?
There are many different peels which produce different results.

What is the difference between different peels?
Although there are several different types of peel available, they are generally classified as light, medium or deep peels, which vary in the depth of penetration into the skin.
Each produces vastly different results. Generally, the deeper the peel, the more profound the results and the longer the recovery time. Light peels are sometimes referred to as "lunchtime" peels as they can be carried out in under 30 minutes and may leave the skin a little pink, allowing you to resume normal activities immediately. On the other hand, medium & deep peels produce a more severe reaction & require time off work. Within each category there are also different chemicals which are used. Based on experience, your doctor will have preferences with regard to the type of chemical peel used, along with the concentration.

How do they work?
Chemical peels are similar in the following way: they are chemicals applied to the skin to bring about a controlled burn which varies in depth. The result is similar to sunburn and ranges from very mild to quite severe. A light peel, for example, will simply exfoliate the skin just as you would exfoliate at home. The difference is that light peels produce a more even "exfoliation" & also stimulate skin cells.

Light peels: penetrate the epidermis only, at a level of approximately 0.06mm
Medium peels: penetrate the epidermis & upper dermis, at a level of 0.45-0.6mm
Deep peels: penetrate the epidermis, upper & mid dermis, at a level of 0.6-0.8mm

How do they have an anti-aging effect?
Old skin cells are replaced by new regenerated skin cells which are stronger & more tightly packed. The skin tightens, wrinkles are reduced & a more youthful appearance is restored. The skin is revitalized & resurfaced, and becomes smoother, firmer and more evenly colored, ultimately resulting in a younger & healthier looking complexion.

How do I know if a chemical peel is the right treatment for me?
After evaluating the condition of your skin, your skin type, the severity of skin discoloration & wrinkling & the result you wish to achieve, your doctor will discuss various treatment options. Your medical history will be taken into account.

How do I know if I need a light, medium or deep peel?
The depth of peel which is most suitable for you can only be determined by an experienced medical practitioner, & depends on your skin type & desired results. It is important that you discuss your main concerns, the level of skin improvement you hope to achieve & any particular problem areas that may require special attention. Generally, the degree of skin damage & aging equates to the depth of peel required to bring about significant improvement.

Are skin peels only used on the face?
No, some chemical peels can be used on other areas of the body such as hands, arms, chest, legs.

Are chemical peels safe?
Chemical peels have been performed for many years & are very safe if applied by an experienced medical practitioner. There are potential side effects which must be understood, and some people are not suitable for certain peels. These details will be outlined, & further discussed at consultation.

What is the difference between a chemical peel, laser treatment & dermabrasion?
They are all forms of skin "resurfacing" using different modalities. Laser cannot be performed on any areas other than the face. Laser surgery and dermabrasion penetrate the skin to a similar depth as a medium to deep peel, & all have a similar recovery time.

Light Skin Peels (glycolic acid peels)

Glycolic acid is an Alpha Hydroxy acid which comes from cane sugar. It is used in light peels & some skin products.
Light peels aid in reversing the damaging effects of several factors which contribute to skin aging, including sun damage, pollution, stress & smoking. They are very effective in the treatment of several common skin conditions including mildly sun damaged skin, fine wrinkles, age spots, rough/dry/oily skin, mild acne, blemish prone skin, large pores & dull complexion. Glycolic acid acts on the epidermis & helps to remove the dead or damaged outer layer of skin cells by breaking down the glue-like bonds between them.
It also stimulates cell turnover & both the production & re-organisation of collagen & elastin. Whilst glycolic acid is available in some over the counter products, our peels & products are medical strength. These peels & products are therefore only available after initial assessment & recommendation by a qualified medical practitioner.

Skin Rejuvenation
The quickest & most effective approach to skin rejuvenation is to combine the use of glycolic acid skin products with a course of glycolic acid peels, starting with a low concentration & gradually increasing the strength of the peel according to your skin�s response. Glycolic acid skin products prepare the skin for chemical peels & optimize their effectiveness.

What to Expect from the Treatment
Your skin will become smoother, firmer & evenly colored, ultimately resulting in a younger & healthier looking complexion. Results are usually seen and felt after the first peel but maximal improvement may take 6-12 weeks. Light peels are usually carried out initially as a series of 6, & are performed 1- 4 weeks apart, depending on your skin�s reaction to a peel, & also on your schedule. Thereafter, you may like to have a peel every 1 - 6 months but you do not need to continue if you do not wish to.
When you first start using the glycolic products and having glycolic peels the skin cells are undergoing change. The damaged outer layer of cells is being replaced by a new healthy layer & one or more of the following responses is quite normal:

  • Stinging
  • Burning
  • Pink/red skin
  • Irritation
  • Tingling
  • Dryness
  • Flaking
  • Wrinkles & blemishes may initially worsen

These responses are expected, are usually mild & disappear once the skin learns to tolerate the glycolic acid.

Side Effects
True side effects to glycolic peels & products are rare.
The most common side effect after a peel is brown discoloration of the skin. This is usually reversible but can rarely be permanent. This side effect usually occurs only in those who have had sun exposure after a peel. Peels can rarely cause persistent skin redness. Allergy to glycolic acid is very rare. If you get coldsores a peel can cause them to flare. If you do develop a coldsore after a light peel it can be treated with Zovirax ointment, which is available at all pharmacies.

Contradictions ... ie who should NOT have peels

If you have any of the following then a peel should not be done at this time:

  • Accutane use within the last 6 months
  • Active cold sores (herpes simplex)
  • Facial warts
  • If you are now pregnant or breast-feeding
  • If you form keloid or hypertrophic scars
  • If you have a history of sun allergies
  • Prior bad reaction to a peel, laser or dermabrasion
  • Recent radiation treatment for cancer
  • Sunburn or significant sun exposure in the last 2 days
  • Surgery or cryosurgery within the last month to the area that you plan to have peeled

How the Peel is done
The procedure takes approximately 15 minutes but you should allow 30 minutes for your appointment.

First your practitioner will review the possible side effects of a peel with you & give you a consent form to sign.

Next, your skin will be cleansed thoroughly & allowed to dry.

Then a layer of glycolic acid will then be applied to one area of the face at a time. The solution will be left on the skin for several minutes. During this time you will feel a mild stinging or burning sensation, which is temporary. The solution is then rinsed off thoroughly & the skin is dried. Some soothing cream will then be applied. The stinging sensation subsides after the solution is rinsed off, & may last up to 10 minutes after treatment.

A light peel usually results in some redness & there may be some mild "flaking" which may last for up to 4 days.

What to do before your peel
It is important to use the glycolic products recommended for at least 2 weeks prior to your first peel in order to prepare the skin.

  • Do not use Retinova or any acne treatment products for 4 weeks prior to a peel
  • Do not use any exfoliating creams or sponges for 1 week prior to your 1st peel, other than those recommended
  • Do not carry out any form of hair removal on the area to be treated for 4 weeks prior to a peel
  • Avoid shaving for 24 hours prior to a peel
  • On the day that you are to have the peel, cleanse in the morning & if possible, do not apply any product to the skin, especially after shave, perfume, or any product containing alcohol. Moisturiser or light makeup is ok, as your skin will be cleansed prior to your peel.

What to do after your peel
Normal activities can be resumed immediately.
For 2-4 days after the peel, apply the non-glycolic moisturiser recommended by your doctor twice daily until the skin returns to its normal appearance. Then resume using your glycolic products as before.

Following any skin peel, it is important that you avoid any exposure to the sun, particularly for the 1st 3-4 days. You must use a sunscreen of SPF 25 or higher, which can be applied over your skin cream, at least 20 minutes before going outside. Sunlight on the skin after a peel can cause brown discoloration of the skin.

You may start wearing make-up the day after your peel, provided you do not have any crusting or tenderness.

To avoid the possibility of scarring, please do not peel, pick, scrape or scratch the skin, & avoid the use of abrasive or exfoliating sponges.

Do not use Retinova during your peel sessions & for one month after the last peel.

During your course of peels, & for at least one month after the last peel, you should not have hair removal by any technique because it can cause severe irritation of the skin.

Men can resume shaving once the skin feels normal, usually 24-48 hours after a peel. You should avoid intense sunlight without a strong sunblock as your skin is more sun-sensitive

 

What causes skin aging & what happens?
Skin aging is caused by a combination of genetic makeup, photodamage, stress, smoking & pollution. Aside from genetic aging, the most profound cause of skin aging is sun exposure. Collagen & elastin fibers are normally arranged in a parallel fashion. With age & exposure to the elements, skin turnover slows down which results in a build up of dead cells on the skin�s surface. This is not only a cause of several skin problems, but is a barrier to any product that is applied to the skin. Collagen and elastin production decreases and the fibers become crosslinked & disorganised. Cells become less capable of retaining moisture & therefore become dehydrated. Skin becomes thinner, blemished and heals slowly due to slower cell production. Loss of elasticity with formation of fine lines, wrinkles & furrows due to disorganisation of collagen & elastin fibers, & decrease or cessation of collagen & elastin production. Skin dimples & sags & becomes more susceptible to the effects of gravity.

Skin becomes dry & scaly due to inability to retain moisture.
Irregular pigmentation and brown spots due to hormonal change & sun damage.
Muscles of expression further result in deep lines caused by repeated use.

What can we do to reverse & prevent skin aging?
Whilst we cannot alter our genetic makeup, we can reverse & then prevent the damaging effects of other factors which contribute to the aging process. Cosmeceuticals aid in the reversal and prevention processes.

Skin Care Products
We recommend the Rationale or Cosmedix range of cosmeceuticals. For certain skin problems I may recommend a special lotion for you which I can order from a compounding chemist. There are products to suit every skin type & to treat every skin problem. With a suitable skin rejuvenation program we can reverse the damaging effects of several factors which contribute to skin aging. These include sun damage, pollution, stress & smoking. Your skin will become smoother, firmer & evenly coloured, ultimately resulting in a younger & healthier looking complexion.

What are cosmeceuticals?
Cosmeceuticals are skin care products which contain active ingredients that bring about skin rejuvenation by stimulating the skin cells & regulating their functions. Unlike "cosmetics" which may look good & feel nice, but do not contain ingredients that actually treat the cells. Our aim is to provide a range of products which are simple, effective & affordable.

What are some of the active ingredients & how do they work?
Alpha Hydroxy Acids - fruit acids such as glycolic acid which is derived from sugar cane. Used in light peels & some skin products. Acts on the epidermis & helps to remove the dead outer layer of skin cells by breaking down the glue-like bonds between them. Stimulates cell turnover & both the production & re-organisation of collagen & elastin.
Antioxidants - including Vitamin C, A, & E which help to neutralise the damaging effects of "free radicals". These are unstable chemicals that are formed when the skin is damaged by the sun, stress, pollution & smoking. They interfere with cellular DNA, (the protein containing the genetic code), resulting in cellular mutation & alteration, & malformation of cell synthesis. Antioxidants act on the dermis & stimulate collagen synthesis.Hydroquinone-prevents the production of pigment & is used to treat irregular pigmentation, sun spots & dark circles under the eyes.

Products containing these ingredients help to soften fine lines & wrinkles, improve skin tone & texture, reduce age spots & irregular pigmentation, improve elasticity & hydration.

Whilst some of these ingredients are available in over the counter products, our range includes medical strength products. These products are therefore only available after initial assessment & recommendation by a qualified medical practitioner.

What does the skin rejuvenation program involve?
There are 3 main components to skin rejuvenation: treatment, prevention & maintenance

Treatment
Your program is based on your skin type, colour, specific problems, what you wish to achieve & how quickly you want to see results.

Firstly, the damaged outer layer of cells must be removed. This can be done in several ways. The quickest & most effective approach is to combine an "at home" program of glycolic acid containing skin products with a course of 6-8 glycolic acid peels, starting with a 30% peel & gradually increasing the strength.

It is important to use the glycolic products for at least 2 weeks before your first peel, in order to prepare the skin. Peels are initially carried out every 2-3 weeks. Normal skin cell turnover time is 6 weeks, and this rate of turnover slows down with increasing age. As the active ingredients in the products work by regulating cellular functions, it may take 6-12 weeks for your skin to rejuvenate. If you have a particular skin problem it may even take longer. For most, however, results will be seen within 6 weeks.

When you first start using these products the skin cells are undergoing change. The damaged outer layer of cells is being replaced by a new healthy layer & one or more of the following responses is quite normal:

  • Stinging
  • Burning
  • Pink/red skin
  • Irritation
  • Tingling
  • Dryness
  • Flaking
  • Wrinkles & blemishes may worsen

Remember that these products contain active ingredients, & this is why these responses are to be expected. They are usually mild & disappear once the skin learns to tolerate the products. If there is oversensitivity then the products chosen may be too strong for you. This is why it is important for you to attend the clinic for ongoing assessment until a maintenance stage is reached.

Manitenance & Prevention
Maintenance & prevention involve a combination of the following:

  • Glycolic acid containing products - to encourage & accelerate cell turnover & stimulate the production of collagen & elastin
  • Antioxidant containing products - to fight off free radicals & prevent cell damage
  • Hydration - to keep the cells healthy
  • Sunscreen - to prevent sun damage & skin cancer
  • Regular peels - 1-2 monthly depending on skin type & needs
  • Oral antioxidants & multivitamin supplements are recommended

Your "at home" program will be simple, affordable & effective, & will probably involve
the use of 4 products:

  1. Cleanser
  2. Moisturiser
  3. Sunblock
  4. Special treatment product/s

Some examples of common skin problems which are treatable:

  • Sallow/dull skin
  • Irregular pigmentation & freckling
  • Fine lines/wrinkles
  • Age spots (sun spots)
  • Sun damage
  • Dry/rough/scaly skin
  • Oily skin
  • Acne or acne prone skin
  • Acne scarring
  • Blemish prone skin
  • Large pores

 

 
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